The bench sequence stays the same whether we are building a run of cupboards or rejointing a table someone inherited. Material decides the pace, and the order of work is what keeps a piece square.
Most jobs begin with a visit across Gauteng. We measure the space, check how the piece will actually be used, and look at the walls, floors and existing services before anything is drawn. Fitted work rarely meets a true corner, so the numbers taken on site matter more than a clean sketch.
Back at the bench, timber is chosen from the running stock list, mostly oak, ash and reclaimed Oregon pine. Boards are milled to dimension and then left to settle before jointing. Rushing that pause is how a top cups later, so the stack sits while the next stage is planned.
The joint follows the job. Housed and scribed for fitted cupboards, glued-up and dowelled for island tops, reinforced where a shopfitting counter takes daily wear. Repair work on older solid-wood furniture runs in the same order, but starts by opening the existing joints and cleaning them before any new timber is cut.
Sanding happens between coats rather than all at the end, so the grain stays open instead of buried under a flat film. Oil and wax are common on domestic pieces; harder-wearing surfaces get a different build-up. We do not promise a fixed turnaround, because drying and settling set the real schedule.
A clear description of the piece or space helps more than a rough guess at dimensions. If you already know the timber you want, say so; if not, we can talk it through at the bench. Photos of an existing piece, especially the damaged areas, save a lot of back-and-forth.
Questions that are not about a specific job are best sent by email. For anything that needs a proper answer, the contact page has the studio address and phone number, and the resources section covers timber notes and workshop reading.
Method at Tycoon Workshop follows the material. Nothing gets cut until we have seen the space or the piece, and the order below is the same whether you are commissioning fitted cupboards or bringing in a table that has been in the family for decades.
Step 1
Send rough dimensions, a few photos and how the piece will be used. For restoration work, tell us what you want kept: dents, water marks and old repairs often matter more than a flat surface.
Step 2
Most jobs start with a visit to measure the room and check how the piece sits against real walls and floors. Uneven plaster, dropped ceilings and existing services change the build, so we would rather see them than guess.
Step 3
We work mainly in oak, ash and reclaimed Oregon pine. The running stock list on the site shows what is on hand, so you can see the material before committing. If you have no preference, we will suggest what suits the job.
Step 4
Boards are milled to dimension and left to settle before any joint is cut. Rushing this stage is how timber moves later. Joints are then chosen to suit the piece: housed and scribed for fitted cupboards, glued up and dowelled for island tops, reinforced where a counter takes daily wear.
Step 5
Sanding happens between coats so the grain stays open rather than buried under a thick film. Oil and wax finishes are common on furniture and counters; harder finishes go where a surface is wiped down constantly.
Step 6
On older solid-wood furniture we open the existing joints and clean them before cutting any new timber, so repairs sit inside the original frame instead of covering it. Where a joint has failed before, we look at why before repeating the fix.
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